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Epsom in the Thirties
'Epsom is as clean and bright a town as sound local administration can make it, and it also has the advantage of being an excellent shopping centre. The shop premises in the High street and elsewhere strike a modern note, and although Epsom has its picturesque sides, its business arrangements are not those of an 'old-fashioned' country town'. So wrote the contributor to the 1936 town guide. There was certainly no shortage of food shops - six firms held game licences from the Council, including the large Sainsburys in Upper High Street, Marshalls fish shop in the High Street,and Macfisheries. The butcher's shop of Ardern Elphick, on the corner by the Marquis of Granby, hung up carcases and sides of meat as had been done for the last twenty years - Best English and Scottish Beef, Southdown Mutton. Like other butchers in the town, Elphick slaughtered on the premises: children wondered why so many lambs were driven round the back of the shop, and why none ever came out. Ewell, too, had a butchers - Cracknells, on the High Street/ Spring Street corner, with the slaughterhouse next to it . This was lit through a window with wooden trellis, set high in the wall above the curious glances of the children. Coppens, the General and Fancy Draper at the foot of Upper High Street, was packed full of everything needed for dressmaking, covers and curtains. They faced stiff competition from Reids, 'the West End store in Epsom', where eighteen departments occupied three sales floors and there was still room on another floor for the restaurant, the ladies hairdresser and the chiropodist. At Lester Bowdens ladies and gentlemen could have tailored cloths together with hunting, polo and racing breeches and racing silks - all made on the premises by expert craftsmen. Emma Harvey at the Quadrant advertised her services as a court dressmaker and ladies tailor, with dresses coming direct from New Bond Street. The shop workers, without whom none of these marvels would have been possible, worked long hours. Tobacconists wanted the Council to let them stay open until 9.30 or 10, but although almost all the fifty local traders in the business supported the petition, it was turned down on the grounds of public health. Now that so many houses were becoming available, estate agents sprung up: Peacock and Keen were set up to sell properties on the Hazon Farm Estate and Harwood & Co, builders of the Woodcote Green estate, had their own agent's office in the High Street. Epsom's car dealers made sure their premises were grand enough to attract the wealthier new residents. The Woodcote Motor Co. in Church Street were largest, followed by Pages Motors, who had the advantage of a High Street location - petrol pumps swung out across the road for the convenience of motorists, if not pedestrians. Just about everything for the house could be purchased at Dorsets in Waterloo Road. This ironmongers stocked gas and electric lighting, plumbing and sanitary works, brushes and woodware: there was a foundry on the premises. Further down the High Street, Norringtons supplied decorating materials and tools with appliances for all trades. Absalom & Garland in Upper High Street also stocked plumbing and sanitary goods, and were sole agents for the celebrated Robbialac paints. The Council was still supplying electricity to the area as it had been for 35 years, and its new Electricity Office and Showroom had been opened to the public in Church Street. Here, for 2/6d a quarter, you could rent one of the latest electrical ovens, kettle included. But there was an alternative at the showroom of the Wandsworth & District Gas Company. Many outlying houses were not yet on mains electricity, and they kept up the demand for gas lighting. Tired out by shopping, the ladies of Epsom could relax in one of the town's fifteen cafes and refreshment rooms, from the Ivydene Luncheon Rooms and Tea Gardens in South Street to Riddingtons in the High Street. Pubs trading in the town centre included the Spread Eagle, the Kings Head and the White Hart; the George had just been rebuilt, and in Upper High Street the Railway Hotel was open for business. Ewell had a cider pub at the Lord Nelson and a beerhouse at the Star in Cheam Road. Edward Thomas the cycle dealer of East Street could be relied on, not just for bicycles, but for prams, nursery furniture and wheeled toys. He had been quick to spot the expanding market offered by young families raising their children in the area. Mrs. Earle of Earles Stores in Ewell looked after other people's children while they did their shopping, her husband said she was never happy unless she had a baby in her arms. Sidney Best, the chemist who had opened branches in Epsom, Ewell and Stoneleigh, was careful to advertise that he stocked everything for baby, including surgical and sickroom requisites, with a day and night emergency service. Meanwhile at Lavender Hedge in Chessington Road, Miss C.M. Ellis was prepared to look after children (up to seven at a time) in their parents' absence. As the professional classes began to move into the area, there was a market for private schools. Big houses, like the Brambles in Kingston Road or Park Hill House off Epsom Road, were being converted to schools. Budgell, the headmaster of Ewell Castle, had just added Bourne Hall Girls School to his enterprise. Ewell Castle advertised that it was fully equipped, at a cost of £30,000, so that every room had central heating and electric light. Parents were assured that the school would turn out boys displaying 'those characteristics which have made Englishmen what they are'.
The Odeon opened on 19th April 1937, built as part of Oscar Deutsch's cinema chain. The name is really ancient Greek, but was passed off as a coded message, Oscar Deutsch Entertains Our Nation. Trevor White has written:- 'The premiere seemed an exciting affair to attend - reserved seats, a promise of celebrities, talk of a Military Band - with massed trumpeters - and even a cocktail party afterwards. I remember that slight sharp smell, a mixture of paint, size and distemper plus recently laid carpets permeating the rapidly filling auditorium. I remember tugging my parents through the crowd then making for our 'high class seats' as the programme called them. The stage curtains were of a green velvet-like material and the screen curtains, when disclosed, showed a panorama of a mountainous region with an Odeon cinema planted at the centre. The celebrities on stage were Tom Walls and Ralph Lynn, who came to prominence in the Aldwych Theatre farces in the early nineteen twenties. Tom Walls lived in the Reigate Road, and Ralph Lynn lived in Wilmerhatch Lane and then at Kingswood Road, Tadworth. After a musical interlude by the Band of His Majesty's 4th Queens Own Hussars (containing massed trumpeters) a Gaumont British Newsreel was screened followed by a colour musical and a cartoon Three Blind Mousketeers. Lastly came the main attraction, Beloved Enemy, made at the Samuel Goldwyn Studios in Hollywood and starring Merle Oberon and Brian Aherne. Mum, Dad and I didn't have the nerve to gatecrash the cocktail party. We wouldn't have got far if we had. We almost certainly bought fish and chips at Marshall's Fish Restaurant, next door but one, then went home quietly impressed with the sudden glamour of a unique evening's entertainment'. 'The yard at our coalmerchants',writes John Furniss, 'being next door to the cinema, provided a good park for the VIPs, and one of the coalmen, Bill, enthusiastically acted as car park attendant, doubtless looking for a large tip. He stayed behind in the yard till late that night. Finally, the last to appear was the millionaire Oscar, who tottered towards his car, thrust his hand in his pocket, and with a patronising 'there-you-are-my-man' look emptied the contents into Bill's waiting hand and drove off. Bill looked down. It held fourpence halfpenny'. The Odeon was built on the site of Chamberlains, a well-loved Epsom tea shop. This was an old-fashioned institution, where you sat on hard chairs at little circular tables and could enjoy a glass of cold milk and a sticky cake called a coconut pyramid as served by Mr. Chamberlain's plump wife or equally plump sister.
'I remember going down to the end of the lane with Mother - it must have been 1937', says Regina Pickett, 'and watching the King and Queen come by in their car, and the King raised his hat to us, and the Queen waved. The charabancs would come along the Kingston Road, and up Reigate Road and then up Longdown Lane, and we'd follow them. We'd take our picnic with us and meet friends who lived in Longdown Lane. We used to get up what we called the Three Brooms, because you had the best vantage point, right on top of the hill, and we used to have the table cloth laid out on the grass, and have corned beef sandwiches, pork pies, bread and cheese, bread and jam, homemade fruit cake, fruit, sweets, flasks of tea. The men would have the bottles of ale and cigarettes. We had homemade lemonade. I remember seeing Prince Monolulu decorated with all these feathers all over his head, the one-man band, people playing accordions, the pearly kings and queens, the post-horn coach going by up Longdown Lane - I always remember that great long tubular thing. I think people were throwing money out of cars as they went by, but I don't think we were allowed to pick it up. Everybody had a jolly good time. Nobody ever squabbled or bickered. Nobody bothered about dressing up in their finery, or what they looked like, and nobody looked down on other people. It was one big happy family'. There was excitement off the course as well as on. Thirteen charges of welshing on bets were made at the 1937 Derby, plus four of gaming, and one of assault, while three men were charged with the theft of a taxi cab. William Bramwell from Manchester, bookmaker, pleaded guilty to two charges of welshing. When stopped, he told police: 'They broke me on the last race', but was found to have £50 on him - more than enough to pay out. He was fined £10 on one charge and sent down for six months on the other. Two Leicester men were seen making a book at higher odds than other bookmakers, then leaving their pitch. Stopped on the way to Epsom Downs Station, one was given six months hard labour. Annie Egerton of Thornton Heath reported backing Port of Call at 300-1 when the going odds were 10-1. Her bookie, Thomas Cunningham of Manchester, was nowhere to be found after the race, and when she met up with him later he turned and ran. Stopped by a police officer, he said he had not taken any bets, the £15 in his pocket being profit from selling flags. Cunningham was fined £2 and sent down for two months. As in many previous years, local conversation before the Derby meeting soon turned from the race to the gypsies. The new Downs Regulation Act had for the first time given the Conservators powers to move gypsy caravans off the Downs. The gypsies, however, were not inclined to let an Act of Parliament obstruct their tradition of assembling for the Derby, and the notices put up advising them otherwise had little effect. Major Gordon tried unsuccessfully to discriminate between those coming to run stalls or tell fortunes, and those with more criminal intentions. The police approached the Downs Conservators recommending theat the gypsies should come on the Downs ten days before the race, to be escorted there by mounted patrols. It was Lady Sybil Grant of the Durdans who saved the day by giving the gypsies free use of a large field on her land. Here the caravans were lined up in order, children were playing in the hot sunshine and the grazing horses completed the peaceful picture.
In March, the training of wardens began in the Foresters Hall off Waterloo Road. There were 175 people there, and the Borough Engineer was put in charge of the street warden system. Over 800 people attended the first demonstration of gas masks. First Aid classes were held in the new Fire Station. Preparations for attack included not just gas masks but gas-proof rooms in the home. 52 people attended the first anti-gas training meeting at Ewell Court. Buildings were chosen for use as hospitals and First Aid posts when the bombs began to fall. Ewell Court was to be a casualty clearing hospital. Schools were warned to send children home during air raids, and to convert themselves into hospitals The banks offered use of their strongrooms as air raid shelters, while the basement in Woolworths' new High Street store was to be Epsom's main air raid shelter. Provisions were made for the exodus of London refugees who might stream into the area at the onset of war. Motor cyclists offered to help as despatch riders, and the local Boy Scouts formed a corps of cyclist messengers.
The Borough regalia were put on display in the new Electricity showrooms in Church Street. The High Streets of Epsom and Ewell were decorated and illuminated, as were Rosebery Park and Ewell Court. That night people danced to the music of the band under the coloured lights in Rosebery Park, while for the select few the Charter Ball (evening dress only) was hosted by the Grandstand. Glenisters Band and Giuseppe Ceci's Neapolitan Cabaret played till half past one in the morning, and it only cost fifteen shillings to buy tickets for two. A highlight of the great day was the procession of historical tableaux, which left the Organ Inn that afternoon. Mounted on lorries and other vehicles lent by local firms, the procession began with the road-building activities of the Romans and continued with other characterful scenes from local history, not all of them true. Henry VIII destroyed Cuddington village, Henry Wicker's cow discovered Epsom Wells, Mrs. Mapp the bonesetter plied her trade, and Lord Lyttleton trembled before the ghost at Pitt Place. A final tableau on the horses of Epsom brought up the rear.
Most of the new houses were taken by young married couples, many of them moving out from south London. A season ticket from Stoneleigh station was the key to a new lifestyle. Properties went for an average of £700, so that for the first time many people felt they could buy their own home. Monthly repayments on the new development totalled £20,000 (£5 a head). The Council, like the developers, welcomed the financial opportunity, since the rates from Stoneleigh at £10 a house would increase the total rateable value for Epsom and Ewell by a tenth to £500,000. During 1937 plans were passed for building over a thousand new houses in the area, adding to streets which already stretched for 14 miles. New houses meant increased trade, at first for local builders and afterwards for furniture and other shops. Most houses were heated by coal or anthracite, so coal merchants found themselves with fresh customers. Nurserymen were also in demand. When the estates were first built they were quite bare. There were no trees. and the heavy clay soil had not been respected during development. Under thin topsoil, the new gardeners soon came to the layer of builders' rubble which it covered. The residents of developments also faced unforeseen risks. On the Woodcote Green and Woodcote estates, the new occupants lived in fear of low-flying aircraft from Croydon aerodrome. Already in 1937 a plane had crashed in Purley, and many people were killed. Water could be a menace too - there were calls for Woodcote Pond to be fenced off on safety grounds, but it was needed for watering horses, and so the fences only went up on the side by the road. Development in other parts of the town was in the hands of the Council, who had initiated a programme of slum clearance. 25 acres of Hook Road were acquired to house families moved from overcrowded properties in South Street, and 185 houses had just been completed at the Ebbisham estate (originally called the Hookfield Estate, but there were problems of confusion with the middle-class development of the same name). To fulfill the needs of new housing, the Council extended their water undertaking with a massive new reservoir on the Downs holding two million gallons. As the new residents settled in, the work of extending public services began. Where there were new homes, there would be children, and children needed schools: so plans began for a central Council school in West Ewell, to take 480 pupils (now Danetree), and for the County school for girls adjoining Nonsuch Park. Plans for a badminton hall and squash courts at Pound Lane were underway in 1937. In East Street work was begun on the municipal baths, which would cost some £64,834 to complete. Ewell Court was to be turned into a centre for the new estate which had grown up around it, to contain a branch library and meeting rooms, but plans to site the mortuary there as well came to nothing.
The widening of the High Street went ahead, though it put 2d on the rates and involved pulling down the whole north-east side of the High Street. The Ministry of Transport was creating a fast motor road to the coast, and local interests had to give way. There were problems with Lloyds Bank and Montague Burton, both of whom were redeveloping premises in the area scheduled for demolition. Montague Burton stopped work in anticipation of the new development and negotiated pride of place in the rebuilt shopping parade. Lloyds Bank decided the road issue was a sham and went ahead to complete their new branch, which much to their surprise was pulled down four years later and had to be reconstructed thirty feet further back. Many landmarks disappeared in the redevelopment, including the Literary Institute, Epsom's original public building. Constructed in the early 19th century, this had a stage, a meeting room for 150 people, and a library with over 2000 books. Lectures, concerts and spelling bees had been the order of the day, but by 1937 it was being used as a furniture store room by Keelings. Nearby the Railway Inn catered for a different clientele: this too disappeared, to be replaced by the new Charter Inn. The first stage of road widening had been completed by the summer of 1937: Woolworths was ceremoniously opened by Tom Walls, local racehorse owner and film star. Soon after, Boots, Dolcis, and Lilly & Skinner followed in the new parade, with Pullingers representing the local traders. Plans were made for a shopping week, and Christmas leaflets were drawn up to publicise the new shops. At the other end of town, traders in Station Road protested that they were being left out of the action, and so the name of their road was officially changed to Upper High Street.
At the Cottage Hospital, thirty-four patients including three children received a Christmas as good as any they might have had at home, including a visit by the Mayor and Mayoress. All the wards were decorated, and breakfast was bacon and eggs - for those able to eat it. Visitors were admitted at 2.00pm, and as a special Christmas treat, each patient could invite two guests for tea. At the Dorking Road Institution (the Workhouse, as it used to be) the oldest patient had celebrated her 97th birthday, while the youngest were two boys born in the maternity ward on Christmas morning. The Mayor and Mayoress came round, presenting each man with cigarettes, after which the special Christmas dinner was followed by singing to the accompaniment of piano and accordion. Then it was off to the Isolation Hospital for the Mayor, where he supervised the handing out of more presents to children. Meanwhile at Ebbisham Hall, 170 guests attended the annual childrens' party run by the Epsom Brotherhood. Children gazed in awe at the two large Christmas trees and the decorations in the hall before taking away their presents of chocolate. Charitably minded citizens had another problem on their minds as the town's population grew - there was a shortage of hospital beds. A series of meetings chaired by Lord and Lady Ebbisham kept this in the public eye. Only 40 beds were available to serve a population of 58,000 - the Cottage Hospital in Alexandra Road was crowded out, so that beds were having to be put on balconies, and urgent cases were being turned away. There was a popular movement to build a new hospital as part of the Coronation celebrations. Meanwhile the Council displayed some forward thinking at Ashley Road cemetery, investing in land for future burials. Until called into use, this was to serve as a pound for stray horses.
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