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Queen Victoria's Jubilee



This page is part of the Bourne Hall Outreach Programme, an informal partnership between the Bourne Hall Museum and Epsom and Ewell on the Internet.




The first sign of action for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee came in March 1897, when a meeting was held at the Public Hall to discuss what Epsom could do to help mark the occasion. A crowd packed the building, flinging out suggestions. How about a convalescent hospital for women, suggested the Lord Lieutenant for Surrey; but on hearing this would not be local, the meeting lost interest. Everyone thought a recreation ground was needed - there was nowhere for young men to play games away from Woodcote Cricket Ground and Stamford Green - but the Council already had this in hand and were looking for a suitable property. A young men's institute would be worthwhile, but nobody wanted to run it: and although swimming baths were suggested, it seemed that there might not be enough water available for them. The suggestion of a free library, at first greeted with applause, failed to win support because Epsom wasn't big enough to need one. Mr. Northey observed that money was neeeded for more street lights, policemen and road improvement - he felt that the local roads were the worst in Surrey, little more than a sea of mud in winter and a cloud of dust in summer. Somehow road improvements failed to strike the imagination of the meeting. Then the vicar spoke up in favour of the rebuilding of St. Martin's as a monument to the occasion, but finding no-one to second him he threw his influence behind the final proposal - the improvement of the Cottage Hospital.

The Cottage Hospital, which had been rebuilt in 1889, had become so popular that it was constantly being cramped from lack of room and lack of funds. Income depended on the kindness of local individuals, and fund-raising outings had recently been made by the Fire Brigade and the local cyclists. Each year the winner of the Derby conributed £50, but more was needed to establish a reserve fund - things were so bad that the Hospital had been described as being like a beggar in the gutter. The meeting then heard that the Queen had expressed her preference for hospitals as the objects of charity, and that of course decided the day. Immediately a Jubilee Committee was formed, which in true English style spawned four sub-committees - Catering, Finance, Sports & Entertainments, and Bonfire. Within a few days the Ewell meeting, chaired by Sir Gervas Glyn, had opted to support the same cause. All in all, £645 were raised for direct expenditure on the Epsom & Ewell Cottage Hospital, and £452 to create a reserve fund.

Epsom in 1897 had a chip on its shoulder. Many people still thought of the town as a sleepy hollow - but that time, local residents thought, had to pass. The old-fashioned order was slowly breaking down, as land was developed around the core of Epsom at a rate to alarm its older people. Beyond the station, houses were being built in twos and threes along the line of new streets; the huge asylums being built at Horton would need accomodation for the attendants, the workmen and their families. At present the navvies who were digging the foundations were seen by the town as an unmitigated nuisance, but they did have money to spend. Elsewhere the new Post Office had just been opened in the High street, street lights had arrived, and the Clock Tower was under repair. About time, too: if it had been left any longer, it would have become dangerous. There were plans to fulfill the original specifications and put lions around each corner, but these were dropped, after some earnest debate as to whether these should be British or African lions. The price of £20 was simply too high.

One of the main concerns in the Epsom of 1897 was health. The year before, there had been six cases of scarlet fever in the area, although no-one had died. Now the town faced a long, hot summer and fresh outbreaks of the disease. Up to the end of December there were over sixty reported cases. The outbreak was quickly associated with the navvies working on Horton Asylum, who had arrived in August, 650 strong. An extra 300 men soon joined them. Soon complaints came flooding in about their loose character. You could hardly go to the shops without being insulted, said Epsom ladies. Their husbands' reactions ranged from the contemptuous 'dregs of the working population' to the patronising 'rough untutored sons of toil'. Meanwhile the London County Council, who had brought the men in for their project, denied any duty to house or feed them. Every night the men put up tents, or stayed in the open. Dozens could be found sleeping rough behind the hedges of Miles Farm. At their wits' end, the Council asked the railway company to run cheap workmen's trains from London for the day, but the railways could see no point in taking the men off site. The Workhouse was no good either - as long as the men had money in their pockets, they could not be admitted there. Meanwhile on Hook Road the navvies had found a disused railway carriage next to a caravan and some sheds - a set of shacks normally used during harvest time. Suddenly twenty cases of scarlet fever were reported within a short radius of the buildings. Plans were pushed through for building fifty cottages here, which would house 500 men at a total cost of £600. And although local people may have complained, they were quick enough to make money out of the situation. At the George Inn a bedroom 16 feet by 8, which normally slept 3, now took 5: 28 people were crammed into a room meant for 22. Lighting and ventilation were poor, prices were high - as much as 6d to sleep on straw. The Inspector from Epsom Police Station was called in to help, but he explained that the men had in fact given few problems - they weren't as bad as they looked - and anyway, come the New Year the work on foundations would be over, and they would go.

Residents in 1897 were not happy with the level of policing in Epsom. Where was the bobby on the beat during race days? Fights were breaking out all over the town unchecked. On one occasion a policeman had not been seen in the High Street for two hours, and things got so bad (three fights had broken out) that tradesmen had had to send for the Police themselves. Everyone was convinced that race days were a danger to health as well as morals, because the outsiders were bringing infectious disease into the town - the gypsies were usually blamed for this. Meanwhile the outbreaks of scarlet fever were followed by cases of smallpox and typhoid. There was a new Isolation Hospital at Cuddington, but this had been filled in a week, and people had to be cared for at home. People hesitated whether to extend the premises at Cuddington, add an isolation ward at the Cottage Hospital, or set up a new site in joint arrangement with Croydon. Eventually Epsom received a new Isolation Hospital of its own, at the end of the ribbon development along Hook Road. Other health concerns centred around sewage. There was a bad smell about the ditches receiving effluent from cottages at Gibraltar, and crude sewage had been seen floating down to Punch Pond where the cows drank. Pollution was rife at the Gas Works, where ammonium sulphate was made to the great nuisance of nearby residents, while the smell of fish offal from the fishmongers made the High Street unbearable from 7.00 onwards. Legislation was consulted, but unfortunately it only applied to butchers' offal, so the fishmongers got off scot free.

Sunday 20th June, the anniversary of the Queen's coronation, saw a church parade, the like of which had never before been seen in Epsom: it was even larger than the impressive spectacle put on ten years before. The roads had been specially watered, since it was a hot,dry summer. This led to some debate in the Council chamber, since both men and horses had worked on a Sunday, and it might not have been proper to pay them for sabbath violation. The groups taking part met in their various headquarters at 2.00 and joined the parade at the top end of Upper High Street. Half-an-hour later the procession was led off by an advance guard of firemen, their helmets glittering in the sunshine, followed by a troop of volunteers and the Volunteer Band. Next came the Urban District Council, led by the chairman. More debate in Council - the chairman had no chain of office, and it was hoped that a local gentleman would take the hint and buy one to keep up the town's reputation. In the event no chain was forthcoming. The councillors were loyally reported by the local press as adding dignity, rather than ornament, to the procession.

After the councillors came the postmen, then the Friendly Societies including the Ancient Order of Foresters and the Order of Oddfellows. The officers of Friendly Societies came decked out for the parade in their regalia or badges.After them stepped the Epsom Town Band, playing more or less the same tune as the Volunteer Band: then the Fire Brigade, with the municipal horses, which had been released from their duty on the dustcart for the day. Next marched the Slate Clubs, scaled-down versions of the Friendly Societies with cheaper subscriptions and no regalia. Then followed the Epsom Drum and Fife Band, and the local cyclists pedalled along in the rear. The parade set off down Church Road to reach East Street, then along the High Street as far as South Street, turning down to Woodcote and then round by Worple Road to Church Street. As they came past the Cedars they could hear the bells of St. Martins ringing out to greet them. During the service, a silver collection was taken in aid of the Epsom District Nursing Association. Then after the service, the parade retraced their steps until they came to the Clock Tower, and the Volunteer Band led the assembled townspeople in a jubilant rendition of the National Anthem. Standing well to the front, and leading the singing, was Captain W.M. Reeves, who had been in charge of the parade, while his committee members (who doubled as marshals) were conspicuous in their white and red rosettes.

It was a warm June morning when my parents took me out from Castle House on the Common. We walked down Wheelers Lane to the Clock Tower - it's only nine o'clock , but the market place is already full of people, some setting up the marquee, others strolling up and down looking at the decorations and the mottoes on the shopfronts. Everything in the town looks festive. The scaffolding around the Clock Tower, where the workmen had been doing repairs for the Council, has disappeared under bunting and flags - the lamp posts are draped in coloured muslins, and there are groups of flags in front of them. All the buildings along the High Street look wonderful. The Spread Eagle stands out most, because the front is covered in lamps of different colours. Langlands the estate agents have splashed out - flags and bunting all over the building, and streamers as well, with Chinese lanterns. They have set up a huge portrait of our Queen, surrounded by flowers. Underneath it says Long Live Victoria, then on top Loved By All, and She Wrought Her People Lasting Good. Mrs. Langland has red, white and blue bunting around her house, and another placard saying - Happy The People Ruled By Such A Queen. There's another portrait of the Queen in front of the Kings Head, with flags and lamps around it. We walk along to buy the paper at Mr. Daniell's, next to Weston's piano warehouse. Both of them have festooned their shops with Jubilee bunting - in fact almost every shop in the High Street has joined in.

At midday we go to hear the bands. It's the military band from the East Surreys, and the Town Band with them; they strike up God Save The Queen, and the whole town joins in singing the National Anthem. Behind the Clock Tower, Mother and Father have joined in setting out the old people's lunch. It had started as a lunch for 1000 people but Father told me later that there had been over 1500 there. The old people's fare was wonderful - cold roast beef, boiled beef, ham and veal with Christmas pudding and plenty to drink. While they sit down to eat and drink they are entertained by the Reynolds and Hinton Minstrel Troop. But I am allowed to leave the lunch and run down to join my friends at Hook Road School. We will be marching in the procession of Epsom children to Mr. Aston's big house at Woodcote Grove, and we have been promised all sorts of fun there - swings and roundabouts, a Punch and Judy show, all kinds of sports and games, all free!

At three o'clock everyone has finished lunch and the stewards clear the roadway, then the sports begin for the grown-ups. Everyone stands well clear of the greasy pole, which is set up with a leg of mutton at the top as the prize. First one to reach the top can keep it. Everybody tries and slithers down, their clothes are terribly stained, until Richard Field from South Street comes up and pulls a set of metal hoops out of his pocket. There's nothing in the rules to stop him, and he goes slowly up the pole until he can reach for the mutton - but surprise! it's really a sack of flour, and it bursts all over him. Everyone who is standing under the pole looking up gets flour in their faces, and Mr. Field is crestfallen - but afterwards they found a real leg of mutton for him. Then come the races - one for men over 50 and women over 40, a special handicap race for married men, even one for women with perambulators. Mother enters that one, and comes second. Then there's the stone-picking race, and the slow bicycle race for men, which Father thought he would win, but he kept falling off.

I finish the children's tea at Woodcote Grove in time for the torchlight procession. We all gather in Waterloo Road at half past eight, and form up behind the band on our way to the Downs. It seems as if the whole town is stretched out in a line. When we get to the top I can hardly believe my eyes, the bonfire is so huge. There's a big chain keeping us away from the base, but I can see big lengths of wood holding it together - Father says they are railway sleepers - and then three layers of dry branches, going up and up. The man arranging the wood on top looks so little by comparison, he is forty feet off the ground. By ten o'clock the fire has been set alight, and the flames fill the night sky. Turning around, we can see as far as the lights in London, and far away on the other side there are other bonfires blazing. The whole country must be covered with them. Slowly we head back down into town, to gather round the band at the Clock Tower, and sing God Save The Queen once again. Then home to bed. What a day! Will there ever be a festival like this again?

Photographs in this exhibition included:
  • The Clock Tower was decorated for Lord Rosebery's marriage in 1874
  • Church Street, along which the parade made their way
  • Staff at Horton Hospital bought houses along Hook Road
  • The cyclists of Epsom brought up the rear of the parade
  • All the fun of the fair ws on offer at Woodcote Grove
  • Drewett's Punch & Judy show keeps alive a local tradition
  • This map shows the site of the Epsom Isolation Hospital
  • Garden Cottages off East Street were next door to the gasworks
  • This arch celebrated the 1889 rebuilding of the Cottage Hospital
  • The Cottage Hospital benefited from the Diamond Jubilee fund
  • Bellringers rang to welcome the parade to St. Martins church
  • Workhouse inmates also had a chance to celebrate the Jubilee
  • A minstrel troop entertained the old people during their lunch
  • The Aston family
  • The Foresters' banner, which they proudly carried in the parade
  • Epsom's postmen marched in the parade, behind the councillors
  • Policemen were reputedly hard to find during Epsom's race week
  • The Spread Eagle was covered in lanterns for Jubilee decorations
  • Stamford Green - one of the few recreation spaces available
  • Aston on horseback in front of his mansion at Woodcote Grove
  • The Clock Tower, with the old Kings Head behind it
  • Building works at the new hospitals needed a large labour force
  • The George Inn, reported for overcrowding its rooms with workmen
  • Castle House was one building in 1897, now it is five cottages
  • The children of Epsom began their march from Hook Road School
  • Epsom Fire Brigade marched in the Sunday church parade
  • The great Jubilee bonfire which was built on the Downs
  • The Jubilee meeting was convened in Epsom's Public Hall
  • Horton Hospital, its foundations dug by up to 850 navvies
  • The church parade began at the top of Upper High Street
  • Epsom's first purpose-built Post Office was opened in 1897
  • The streets of Epsom have always been crowded on Derby Day
  • Fishmongers made an awful stink in Victorian Epsom
  • The High Street in the 1890s, site of the old folks' dinner
  • St. Martins church, which the vicar wanted to have rebuilt
  • Langlands' estate agents were the centre of Epsom's Jubilee display


    This page is part of the Bourne Hall Outreach Programme, an informal partnership between the Bourne Hall Museum and Epsom and Ewell on the Internet.

    The Bourne Hall Museum mounts exhibitions each year on aspects of our local history. These exhibitions are fascinating - and much appreciated by those who see them. They take considerable care and trouble to assemble, and it is a great pity that, until now, the material in these exhibitions has been inaccessible to the general public after the exhibitions have closed. The Bourne Hall Outreach Programme will put the text from all the exhibitions back to 1992 on the Internet, thus giving you a mine of information about local history. We hope you will find it useful.

    The Museum has a permanent collection and also mounts exhibitions on specific aspects of life in the past. They welcome enquiries about places in the Borough, which should be addressed to the Curator, Bourne Hall Museum, Ewell, KT17 1UF.